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You
do not need to be a fit mountain hiker to enjoy the countryside around us;
there are many lovely
walks into the
foothills and olive groves. These are probably best attempted in the cool
of the early morning or evening. Tracks, much used by olive pickers, will
always bring you out onto the road eventually, though not always where you
expected! You may find yourself under the cliff in the ruins of the old
Dandalos Venetian manor house, which once had a drawbridge. Many of these
powerful Venetian landlords, like this one, even had their own currency.
You are very likely to pass one of the many olive presses at Aghios
Martinos or Strongili, which have a distinctive, not altogether attractive
smell. There will be a mountain of the crushed remains of the olive stones
and flesh, which are used to fuel central heating, as animal fodder,
fertilizer, and for making soap. Only in May after a very late harvest
will you still see them working. The rolls of black nets under the trees
are unrolled in the autumn to collect the olives as they fall from the
trees. Our olives are small and mostly used for the manufacture of olive
oil or home salting, elsewhere where they have smaller trees and bigger
olives which have to be hand picked for canning and bottling.
Stroll along the back of the beach along the sand dunes to the fish farm
and lake of Antinioti, here eventually you can cool off at the beach at
St. Spiridon. Bird watchers should look out for a fascinating array of
birds, we have a list of those spotted so far; add yours too. The grassy
olive groves at St. Spiridon are famous for the enormous number of rare
wild orchids that flower there in the spring. Pick some wild bay leaves to
take home too. Wending the way along the rough limestone rock seashore you
may find the bases of the 2nd world war machine guns, and the
underground bunkers that were ammunition stores, or the foxhole caves that
were look out posts. The German army desecrated the remains of a feudal
manor as a look out post for the whole of the entrance to the Corfu
Channel. They were able to shell resistance forces in Albania from there.
In
the other direction, only a half hours walk away along the beach, is Roda,
a busy little village with lots of shops, tavernas, and water sports. A
pleasant change of scenery and an easy walk, the less energetic can always
get the bus or a taxi back!
Walking to or from Roda along the main road, just outside Acharavi are the
half-excavated remains of a roman village. You can see the lay out of
roman baths, but there was a whole village stretching back into the olive
grove. The archaeologists unfortunately were called away to a more
impressive discovery elsewhere. This is a huge problem in Greece where
more significant archaeological finds of classical Greece keep being
found, more important than the remains of roman history of which there is
so much allover Europe. Compounded by the fact that the country is short
on government funds for such things.
There is a magical deserted monastery at Nymphes waiting to whisk you into
another world.
Put
on stout shoes and find the moss lined limestone cavern on the way to Old
Perithia, at Loutses.
I
have detailed here a few easy walks, which will introduce you to a
different Acharavi of olive groves, and mountain villages where rural life
goes on unaware of the summer buzz down below. Each option passes the new
Monolithi taverna run by Nikos, known to many who frequented his Acharavi
restaurant on the beach. This is an old Olive press carefully renovated,
which make an attractive resting place after climbing the steep hill; it
has superb views across the channel to Albania.
Those who are hardened hikers and walkers who want more of challenge; read
on, I have also added the Blue Way Marked Paths, courtesy of Mr Fried
Aumann of the St Georges Bay Country Club, who spent many an arduous day
finding and researching these paths and then having them cleared. They
should not be undertaken lightly as some of them are rough and steep
paths, but the rewards outweigh the effort involved.
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