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Courtesy of and with thanks to Mr Fried Aumann
of The St Georges Bay Country Club
No: 1 - Along
the beach to the northernmost point of the island
Leave Acharavi along the beach walking eastwards
(to the right) past several beach tavernas and the last remaining
sand dunes. After 50 minutes you reach the small harbour for
fishing boats at the far end of the beach. Here you leave the
island of Corfu by a pedestrian bridge that takes you to Nissos
(=island), actually an island of its own, separated from Corfu
by the Antinioti Lagoon. Over time, this lagoon is slowly
filling up with silt, washed down from the hills behind. To your
right you see Mount Pantocrator (908m) the highest peak on Corfu.
After crossing the pedestrian bridge go straight on
uphill on a narrow marked path. Looking back, the vista is the 5
miles of beach of
St.George’s Bay
with the coastal villages of
Almiros, Acharavi and Roda. After reaching the top, the path
leads through an old olive grove. You will soon come to a
clearing. Watch out for a blue sign (Laurel/Lorbeer) on an olive
tree. Follow the narrow path to the right that, within just a few
minutes, will bring you to an age old, fragrant grove of Bay
trees. This path stops at a chain. Return to the blue sign and
then follow a narrow dirt road flanked by tall eucalyptus trees.
To your left are the ruins of St. Catherine's Monastery (private
property nowadays, cannot be visited). Following to the right, the
eucalyptus road leads on to a wider gravel road that you follow in
the same direction towards the high mountains of Albania on the
opposite mainland. Another bridge brings you back to Corfu Island
proper. You come out on St.Spiridon beach with its chapel
dedicated to the island's saint. There is a café bar and taverna.
From this point you can either return to
Acharavi using the green line public bus, or start your return
journey by crossing back over the same bridge. Follow the gravel
road for approx 200m, at the end of a line of pine trees turn
right and go down a path to the little cove of Yaliskari.
On the beach you turn left and head for the solar powered beacon
following the shepherds' trail across the rocky headland. Soon you
reach the beacon on the northern most point of Corfu at the
Cape of Agia Ekaterini. The coastal trail reaches another
beach. To your left - hidden behind eucalyptus trees, are again
the ruins of St.Catherine's Monastery. Follow the gravel road
along the sea, recross the pedestrian bridge and follow the
shoreline to Acharavi.
Total walking time approximately 3 hours.
No: 2 - Loutses Caves, Vouni and the Krinias
valley
Take a taxi to Anapaftiria (18. € -ca). Tell
the dréver
to drop you off at the bus terminal (ÔÅÑÌÁ
ÊÔÅË ÁÍÁÐÁÕÔÇÑÉÁ/
ËÏÕÔÓÅÓ).
Follow the blue marks (2) along a tarmac road. Soon the path
climbs up to your right and leads you to a well-preserved "strati",
an old cobbled mule path, flanked by stonewalls on either side,
used to drive the sheep through. Fantastic views across the NE
corner of Corfu with the Antinioti Lagoon, the resort of Kassiopi,
towered over by a fortress, and across to the Albanian coast on
the mainland.
At the end of the strati, turn right across rough
pasture towards the
Lower Cave
of Loutses. During the colder months this cave is
used as a stable. Hundreds of rooks nesting here will rise and
flee as you approach. It is not worth descending into the cave.
Follow the blue marks on a new dirt track with fine views across
the Northern Straits of Corfu, busy with ferryboats and cruise
ships on their way to and from Italy. After some 500 m follow the
blue signs up a path on your right. In late spring and early
summer this gap is so densely covered with white flowering
asphodel lilies that you will have to watch out not to miss the
blue paint marks on the rocks. In some places here you will find
the rare golden asphodel. Carry on uphill through this little
valley for about 30 minutes. At the upper end of the valley keep
right and then head for a stone built shed. Carry on in the same
direction and all of a sudden you will see the
Upper Cave.
Some wooden benches are an inviting resting place. Follow the blue
marks to the left; they will take you to a place from where you
can descend into the cave. This cave is worth visiting.
A dirt road takes you back to the bus terminal
at Anapaftiria. This circular walk should take about 1.5
hrs, not allowing for the time in the cave.
Continue
along the tarmac road down through the settlement of Anapaftiria.
When you reach the main road, turn right into the main village of
Loutses.
There are two café bars and a taverna on your right. Follow the
main road, and shortly after leaving the village, turn left
by a water reservoir tank on your right, into a well-marked old
path that takes you through an olive grove and down to a dirt
track. Turn left and walk along the water pipes towards the
mountain village of
Vouni
and its quarries. Before the first quarry turn
right and follow the ancient path through an olive grove, soon you
turn left. When you reach the first houses of Vouni turn sharp
left again and follow the blue marks descending into the
Krinias Valley. Soon you reach the deep gorge of the
Parigori
River on your left.
The Parigori
River - normally dried up - can quickly turn into a wild mountain
torrent after heavy rainfall. Reaching the main tarmac road, cross
the Krinias Bridge (and the yellow-marked Corfu Trail). Directly
after the bridge turn right into path no: 3 that will take
you back to Acharavi through endless olive groves and a narrow
river canyon. When you reach the main tarmac road, turn left into
Acharavi.
Total walking
time approximately 4hrs. Allow an extra hour for visiting the
upper cave.
No: 3 - Kakóskala - Old Perithia - The Nun's
Path - Dandolo Ruin
This is a rewarding but demanding hike to the
abandoned mountain village of
Old Perithia
where there are interesting ruins of once wealthy
manors from Byzantine times. Start as early as possible in the
morning.
Leave Acharavi on the main road towards Kassiopi
and turn right at a point ca. 800 m past the entrance to the
St.George's Bay Country Club. That is where some power lines cross
the main road. This path is marked with a blue " 3 " .You
follow a little valley through almond trees and soon enter a
narrow canyon. The path turns right at the end of the canyon and
climbs through shrubs and stone-oak trees into olive groves. After
about 1 hour you come to the
Krinias Bridge.
Do not cross the bridge, but turn right onto the tarmac road and
walk through the village of
Krinias.
At the end of the village you turn left. From here you use a
section of the Corfu Trail marked in yellow. The trail
leads uphill through the Sakantoni Valley. The dirt road ends by
the last olive trees.
From here on you follow the narrow age-old
mule-track called Kakóskala (=the difficult passage). Until
45 years ago this was the only way to reach the large mountain
settlement of Old Perithia. The track runs high above the
Parigori River
gorge. Normally dry,
this can turn into a violent torrent during the rainy season. Once
you cross the riverbed carry on uphill through virgin forest. At
the upper edge of this forest there is a clearing with a shrine, a
nice picnic-spot. Shortly after the shrine the trail takes a
sharp turn to the left and climbs through a drier area called the
Red Fields. Until the 1960s these were planted with cereals and
chickpeas. Today they provide grazing for sheep and goats. Here
you walk along an old "strati", a cobbled mule-track running
between old stonewalls. This comes to an abrupt end where
bulldozers have taken over and cleared the land for a dirt road
that takes you directly to the abandoned Byzantine village of
Old Perithia,
towered over
by Mt. Pantocrator
(908 m). Here you will find
two tavernas for some welcome refreshment.
Visit the remains of once wealthy farmhouses
and churches. Leave the village and the Corfu Trail. The taverna
people will show you the way to Lafki via a place called
Loustra tou Deleka. This section of the path is still not way
marked but easy to make out along a dirt road used by the forestry
service.
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For a shorter version you can take a taxi
from Acharavi to Old Perithia (ca. 21. €) and then return by
foot using the yellow-marked Corfu Trail downhill to Krinias.
Just before reaching the Krinias Bridge turn left and
follow path number " 3 " marked in blue down to Acharavi,
as described under walk no: 2.
Leave the valley of Old Perithia, by walking uphill
towards a single farmhouse high on the ridge called Loustra tou
Deleka, nowadays used by Albanian shepherds. The dirt road
descends past a quarry and reaches the mountain village of
Lafki
with 3 café bars. Cross the
tarmac road, and immediately past the little village church turn
right. After a few meters turn left again and follow the dirt road
downhill. Soon you meet path no: " 4" which you follow
downhill slightly to the right. This new dirt road is quickly
being reclaimed by nature. From the point where the bulldozer got
stuck at the far end, a narrow path, which locals call The
Nun's Path, takes you downhill. You reach a clearing with
large rough rocks and turn left. Here, in the hamlet of
Vrachleri you come out onto the tarmac road, which you follow
to the left. After approximately 100 m take a sharp turn to the
right onto another tarmac road leading past the last houses of
Vrachleri and downhill through serpentine bends. Watch out for a
well-marked turn to the right. For some metres this looks like a
dirt road but carries on as one of the last remaining mule tracks
taking you into the next valley. When you reach the tarmac road
turn right. Further on you turn left onto a "white" gravel road.
High above on your right, is the huge rock called "Monolith" with
a fine old stone manor house on top. You reach a small wood,
where the chapel of Vlacherena hides. Turn left
through the gap, and facing you is the impressive ruin of the
Dandolo
Mansion, built
like a fortress, with the remains of a drawbridge. It was from
here that this noble family from Venice administered their
holdings in Corfu. Walk alongside the ruin and through the
adjoining thick wood. Look out for the blue paint markings. As you
come out of the wood, climb down onto a dirt track and turn right.
Take the next marked turn left, cross a riverbed and continue to
the tarmac road, crossing over a chain. Continue to the right on
the tarmac road for 100 m and directly behind the two little
buildings on the right, turn right, and follow a narrow path along
a pipeline. When you reach the first houses in Lithares, a
residential area of Acharavi, turn left and walk downhill into
Acharavi.
Walking time approximately 5 1/2 hours.
No: 4 - The Panorama Trail
Leave Acharavi on the main road towards Roda. Walk
past "Veronika's Café" on the left hand side of the road. Soon
after the Café you come to an area fencing in the excavations of a
Roman Bath complex. Here thrived a large Hellenistic
settlement by the name of Ivi (=Hebe, the goddess of
youth). In the year 30 BC Octavius raised this town to the ground
because the inhabitants had sided with Anthony and Cleopatra, the
losers in the battle of Actium. The survivors fled into the
mountains, and it is this escape route we will use as the first
part of our walk. Return to Veronika's Café and turn right uphill
immediately past the café. Follow the blue marks no: " 4 "
that will guide you through smallholdings, almond and olive
groves. Eventually the narrow path reaches an old uninhabited
farmhouse with many outbuildings. Here, turn left into a dirt
road. After about a hundred yards our path turns off to the left
and climbs through more olive groves to take you to the settlement
of Priftatika, where you cross a tarmac road. The trail
leads on downhill, crosses a riverbed and then climbs into the old
village of
Aghios Panteleimon.
Walk slowly uphill past the church and churchyard, through this
beautiful village. Its old manorial houses tell of the former
wealth provided by the endless olive groves.
You may be lucky and find the old-fashioned
village kafeneion open (on the right hand side past the church).
Stop for a Greek coffee, an ouzo or a portokalada (orangeade). You
will make the old owner's day, and he will still remember you,
even after many years!
At the top of the village you reach a tarmac road.
Turn right and follow this road uphill through serpentine bends
for about 1 km. Then - by a little shrine on your left – you will
find the well-hidden entrance to the Secret Trail, an
uphill climb. This is a remaining part of a man made stone road,
built more than 2000 years ago. For many centuries this road
connected the new mountain homes of the refugees from Ivi, with
their land near their old town by the sea. Forgotten, and
completely overgrown, this section has only recently been reopened
by the Corfu Trail Trust. In spring you will find various orchids
on this path. Further up, the secret trail was unfortunately
destroyed when a pipeline was laid. You keep left and follow the
dirt track past an isolated farm and reach the mountain village of
Trimodi.
Here when you meet the tarmac road, go left for only a few yards.
Immediately by a little shrine, turn left again, and follow a new
dirt track for about 60 yards. Watch out for the blue signs. By
some large cypress trees on your right, the path climbs down into
a steep and narrow valley that you will cross. On the opposite
side you reach a gravel road on top of Messovouno Hill.
Turn left, and a few yards on, you will enjoy a breathtaking
panorama of the north coast of Corfu. To your left, in the
distance, are the Diapontian Isles, which are on the way to
Puglia, in southern Italy, to your right is the wild coastline of
Albania, and directly in front, the coastal resorts of Roda and
Acharavi on the long beach of St.George's Bay.
Acharavi is the successor of Ivi. Follow the dirt
road around Messovouno Hill towards the mountain village of
Lafki.
Before you reach Lafki the walk turns left into another dirt track
leading downhill. (Should you feel like a rest, walk up into Lafki
where there are 3 café bars).
This dirt road is quickly being taken over again by
nature. Follow the marks downhill as described in walk no: 3 via
The Nun's Path
and the
Dandolo Ruin back to Acharavi.
Walking time approximately 4 1/2 hrs.
No: 5 - Agia Triada Monastery - Nymfes -
The Hermitage
Take a taxi to the mountain village of
Omali
(ca. € 12. --) and get out
at the last house on the right hand side of Omali. This is where
our walk no: " 5 ", marked in blue, starts, going downhill
on a dirt road. Soon you will see the first target, the monastery
of Aghia Triada, high on the mountaintop ahead. Going uphill enjoy
beautiful views of the centre and southern part of Corfu Island,
as well as towards the northwest. Where the olive groves end, wild
growth and virgin forest of tree-heather, stone-oaks, broom, gorse
and cypresses take over. Underneath the mountaintop you meet
another dirt road, which you follow to the right. In parts we use
the old path and not the concrete covered road. All is well way
marked in blue. The Monastery of Agia Triada, with its
friendly monks, awaits you on the top of the hill, some 450 m
(1.300 ft) above sea level. When in, the monks will gladly show
you the chapel with frescoes dating back to 1672. You can walk
around the monastery walls to enjoy the breathtaking 360-degree
panorama. On leaving the monastery go to the wooden cross, erected
100 yards away, opposite the entrance to the chapel. From here
you enjoy an even better view of the north coast of Corfu, the
Albanian coast and the Diapontian Islands on the way to Italy.
Leave the summit on the road you used for the
ascent, following the blue way-markings. Further down, at the fork
go straight on. Later turn right, and follow the marked path
through olive groves and the "tunnels" made by olive-nets.
Eventually you will see an aerial next to a building site (watch
your step!). This is where the inhabitants of the settlement of
Nymfes had a lookout to warn them of pirate attacks. The trail now
follows a narrow mule track into Pano Horio (= upper
village), a part of the large old village of
Nymfes.
Its name is derived from the nymphs that lived in the
crystal-clear spring. Turn right when you reach the tarmac road
and walk past the newly piped spring on your left, into the
village square of Nymfes. There are two café bars. In front of
the second one turn right, walk past a large olive press on your
right, and immediately turn left again, following a steep tarmac
road uphill. On the top of this road a wooden sign saying "Askitario"
leads the way to the right along a dirt road, after about 15
minutes walk you will come to the Askitario (Hermitage). Together
with the medieval Pantocrator Monastery nearby, this is one
of the oldest historical monuments in the north of the island.
Unused since the 1930’s, locals have recently started to stop the
decay and to renovate. You can visit the old main building should
the doors be open. Take a look into the basement built into the
rock, which houses the old olive press dating back to Byzantine
times. A narrow path now leads downhill and after 2 minutes walk
you will reach the Askitario where the original hermit
lived in a cave. The path snakes down into the Kanalaki-Valley
below. This area has a remarkably mild microclimate. At the bottom
you cross the creek by an improvised "bridge". Follow the blue
markings on the opposite side uphill till you reach a dirt road.
Here turn right. After approximately 10 minutes turn left, uphill.
In this area there are some red way-marks as well. You follow the
blue ones. They will take you through another "tunnel" of
olive netting, onto another dirt road running along the ridge.
Follow the blue marks downwards through olive groves, toward the
north coast, to the village of
Sfakera,
which you bypass on the right.
By the village school/kindergarten turn right, and follow the
tarmac road back to Acharavi (ca. 3 km).
Total walking time approximately 4 1/2 hours.
No: 6 - Cape Drastis
Take the local, north-shore Green Bus to
Sidari terminal or take a taxi (ca. € 13. - each way). This
walk starts opposite the Mimosa Hotel, marked with a blue " 6
" and blue paint marks and takes you to the north-westernmost
tip of the island, the point closest to Italy.
At first you follow the main road, take the
next turn to the right and enter the community of Peroulades,
which starts here. You cross a bridge and carry on
along the tarmac road to the left into the community of Melitsa.
Follow this road through Melitsa for about 1 km.
Just before you reach Alexis’ Taverna,
(painted in a strong dark apricot colour) take the narrow path
on your right between two fences.
Follow the blue markings into the next path
left and a dirt track going uphill through the olive groves. Here
you will enjoy some hours in peaceful and almost undisturbed
nature, far from the madding crowd in the coastal resorts. At a
road fork, follow the dirt road to the right, uphill, until you
meet another dirt road right on top of the ridge, 300 feet above
the Ionian Sea. Take this road to the left and enjoy views of the
rugged coastline made of pancake strata of sand, clay and lime.
Walk past a hut on the left hand side. Further on take a sharp
turn to the right following the blue marks downhill. After
approximately 20 minutes you reach a crossroads of 4 dirt tracks.
If you have time and energy carry on downhill towards Cape
Drastis, where small beaches and coves invite you for a
swim or picnic. On windy days there may be strong undercurrents in
the sea!
The circular walk continues from the crossroads
on the middle dirt track, leading slowly uphill again where you
will be rewarded by picture postcard panoramas of the cape from
two bends in the upper section of the path. Eventually you will
meet the ridge road again which you continue to follow to the
left, aiming for the two telephone aerials on the horizon that
connect mobile telephony between Greece and Italy.
At the next crossroads take a dirt road that
takes you uphill for approximately 250 yards to Panorama Point
(120m or 360 ft. above sea level and slightly to the right at
the upper end of this road). A low concrete pillar, erected by the
Greek Topographic Services, marks it. This spot offers you one of
the best panoramas of the northwest of Corfu: to the northeast,
the zigzags of the road through the new Logara National Park mark
the dark coastline of Albania. Further left, the Diapontian
Islands of Erikoussa, Othoni, Manthraki and Diaplo are on the way
to Italy, which lies about 50 miles beyond the horizon. Further
left are the mountain village of Avliotes, high above the sea, and
the mountain ranges of Korakas and Pantokrator in the centre of
the island of Corfu.
Return to the ridge road and follow it to the
right towards the two aerials. When you reach these, enjoy your
last view of the Ionian Sea far below, (100m/300 ft.); but beware,
the fragile cliff is overhanging! Continue downhill on the dirt
road. Being mainly unused, this can get overgrown by bracken in
some places. Eventually you meet another dirt road that you follow
to the left, back to the tarmac road and the Mimosa Hotel in
Sidari.
Walking time approximately 3 hours, 4 hours if
you descend to the cape.
The Corfu Trail
Now fully way marked with yellow signs and paint arrows, the Corfu
Trail’s first large group when it opened last year, was a party
from Alpenverein, Germany’s second biggest rambling association.
The 220 kilometre Trail runs from Arkoudillas at Corfu’s
southernmost tip to Cape Agia Ekaterinis at its northernmost point
and, meandering through all the island’s rural regions and,
avoiding heavily developed areas, takes in beauty spots, biotopes,
beaches, picturesque villages, monuments, monasteries and diverse
landscapes, rewarding the walker with a new outlook at every turn.
The Trail was conceived both as a walk in its own right and also
as an ‘artery route’ designed to link up regional footpath
networks as they are created. The Acharavi Blue Route project
constitutes only the second such initiative; last year, The
Corfiot reported on a small regional network that was set up by
the Esperion Council around the north-central village of Valanio.
The Trail passes through this network, and therefore, as foreseen
in the original plan, links it with the Acharavi Blue Routes.
In the Acharavi area, the Corfu Trail descends from Old Perithia,
taking the Kakóskala path down a gully directly for Cape Agia
Ekaterinis. The path was once the locals’ main communication with
the north coast; well within living memory, the Acharavi baker
would use it to make a regular barefoot bread delivery. This
spectacular route then plunges into thick forest, where you might
easily meet Pan. Crossing the bed of the Parigori River - the most
powerful of all Corfu’s watercourses after heavy rain - it
continues through forest and olive groves to Krinias, where the
Corfu Trail and Blue Route 3 diverge.
The Stavros Network.
The road up through Stavros, high above the Benitses coastline,
gives out at the last habitation, a settlement called Komianata,
full of old houses and almost empty of people. Narrowing so that
traffic cannot proceed further, the alleyway reaches a little
square from where the only way forward is on foot, southwards on
the Corfu Trail. Just a few minutes on, a meadow of short-cropped
grass dotted with stately pine trees resembles an Alpine scene.
Cobbled and bordered by low walls, the path sidles around a gully
and drops to olive tree level, continuing to Strongili. But high
above this path, two more ways encircle the mountain, one a
‘top-of-the-world’ track which leads to a tiny chapel perched on a
rock, and the other a mountain-goat path, winding through a
natural rock garden of flowers and wild shrubs. |